Kegerator Build - How To

Converting a Sears Kenmore into a "Kegmore"

Firkin Around...the garage.

Here's my old beer fridge, which you may remember from a previous post. I have begun to homebrew, therefore the refrigerator needed to come up to the next level, since I also chose to keg the beer instead of bottling. This system is setup for a ball lock style corny (Cornelius) keg, but you may get parts for your own pinlock or Sankey style connections.

Below is a photo step-by-step on how the conversion was accomplished.

Project cost: Approximately $300 (assuming you already have the donor fridge)

Parts & Tools list:   

Kenmore is now a Kegmore

• 1" metal cutting hole-saw and a 1/8" metal bit 

• Round or half round, metal file

• Beer faucet, shank and faucet wrench

• 6' of approved gas tubing, 1 gas ball lock connector and two hose clamps

• 6' of approved food grade tubing, 1 liquid ball lock connector and two hose clamps

• 1 five pound CO2 canister and a CO2 regulator/gas gauge

• 1 Corny keg

• 1 stainless steel drip tray

Acquiring the parts:

     I purchased the keg from an online store. Just search for "corny" or Cornelius kegs. I shopped for the lowest price and found new kegs (made in India) for $113 w/free shipping. It uses all the same parts as American made corny kegs, so it will be easy to get spare parts like the dip tube, gas tube, springs, gaskets and poppets. Some are also made in China and Italy as the US does not seem to manufacture these style kegs any longer. I have seen them in 5, 3 and 2.5 gallon sizes (brand new), and there are plenty of US made 5 gallon used cornys still out
 there if you are on a budget.

     The drip tray was also available online and cost about $20.

     

     The CO2 tank, regulator w/gauges, hoses, clamps, shank, wrench, faucet and handle came as part of a complete package, from a different online web store. Shipping and handling were also free and the cost for the package was around $150.

Everything here was $150 and in one kit

     I did not have a 1" metal hole-saw, so add another $25 for a set of saws. If you, or someone you know, owns a 1" saw, you can save the $$$ for more beer! Lucky you.

     As mentioned before, I have the fridge and was willing to drill some holes. If you don't have a refrigerator, scour the local want-ads or Craigslist in your area. You should be able to pick up a decent working fridge for around $100 or less.

    Start by selecting a flat location with adequate access inside the fridge door. I had considered mounting the taps on one side of the fridge, but after placing my hand on the sides while the compressor was running, I discovered a few warm spots (to the touch) by running the palm of my hand along the outside skin of the unit. This indicates that some coils may be present as part of the defrosting or cooling system. Even if it is cool to the touch, there may be unseen wiring buried between the metal exterior and the plastic/insulation interior. Since the door has none of these issues with which to contend, it made the choice easy. I'd recommend the side closest to the hinge, if accessible, as this will keep the beer line hoses out of the way when the door is opened and closed.

     Safety glasses on, begin by drilling a 1/8" hole on the inside of the door, all the way through to the outside, remembering to keep the bit level. The outside hole will act as a pilot marker for the hole-saw. Switch over to the 1" hole-saw and repeat the process. Start by cutting a 1" hole into the plastic & insulation until the pilot bit "finds" the 1/8" pilot hole, then stop. Remove the debris from the hole-saw, then place the pilot in the outside door hole and finish cutting the hole. Drill slowly and carefully each time.

      Take a round file and smooth out any of the burrs on the metal of the door. The shank/faucet can now be inserted through the door and the shank nut, tightened.

     Note: There is enough room in the utility door to add two more taps, right and left of this one. I planned the placement for that possibility.

     I had to pull out the two lower crisper bins and shelf to allow enough head space for the corny keg with the ball lock connectors attached. As you can see, there is still plenty of room in the door and on the adjustable shelves for beer or food. I like to keep a few chilled (never frozen) glasses in the door. Just place a rubberized drip shelf to allow them to stay clean and ventilated. 

Down the road, a board will be added to keep the CO2 tank and keg level in the bottom of the fridge.

     Center, mark and drill the holes for the drip tray. Be sure to check the height of the tray to the tap so you have clearance. Use your judgement for best positioning.

     

     Top Tip: Later, I will add a drain to my drip tray, attach some tubing,  running the line back through the door and into an empty gallon jug. It will act as a runoff drain. I would place the jug in the lower part of the inside door. Great for party guests that have an occasional oops, without having to frequently sponge out the bottom of the tray.

Cool firkin project!

First Time Home Brewing - Enjoying (Part 4 of 4)

Firkin Around...The Kitchen.

It's finally beer!

And it was good. Very satisfying for a first effort. Looked smelled and tasted like a lager.


One or two more of these batches and then on to all grain experiments. Cheers!


Firkin Making The Beer!

First Time Home Brewing - Sampling (Part 3 of 4)

Firkin Around...The Kitchen.

Anxiously awaiting the opening of the first beer.  Not sure what to expect, other than success if all the instructions were followed.  And follow them I did.  The outcome of this batch will most likely make me want to continue or forget about home brewing.  Okay, I know this is pretty foolproof, but it is still nerve racking for the new brewer in me.


This beer has gone from two weeks in the fermenting tank, to two weeks of bottle conditioning and only twenty four hours of chilling (lagering).  It most likely needs a few more weeks conditioning at room temp and lagering in the fridge.

 

It is difficult to detect carbonation. Here goes nothing.....

 
Pop!  Hey, that's a great sound!  Now for the moment of truth. Will it taste like beer?





So, here's the question.  Is it beer yet?

While it was nicely carbonated and had a clear body, the taste was still a touch on the sweet side with an apple wine flavor.  I think that is what they referred to in the instruction book as "cider flavored".  We will call it a success for now, knowing that we cheated it a few extra weeks of conditioning.  In two more weeks, when it has reached the full 6 weeks recommended, we will crack open one of the liter PET bottles and try again.  With a bit more time and luck, we should nail this down as a nice lager.  Stay tuned.




Firkin Making The Beer!

First Time Home Brewing - Bottling (Part 2 of 4)

Firkin Around...The Kitchen.

Beer in the raw

Bottling day has come.  Is it beer yet?  No not yet, but it is getting there.  Before you get down to bottling, tap off a few ounces of the beer and taste it.  Go on, don't be afraid...try some.  If you are lucky, it will taste like flat beer.  That's a good sign.  If it is a bit sweet and sugary, it will need to ferment for a few days longer.  The sweetness means that the yeast hasn't eaten up all of the sugars form the HME.  Mine was fine.  It was not carbonated, murky in color and not sweet.  All these will be corrected during the bottle conditioning phase.

Okay, it's time to get the beer into the bottles.  Two days ago, I moved the keg from its slumber in the closet back into the kitchen.  I kept a towel wrapped around the keg to keep it in darkness.  The reason I moved it two days ahead of bottling, was to let any suspended particles settle down to the bottom of the keg.  As I walked it down the hallway, it sloshed a bit in the keg.  So move it ahead of time. A good practice if you want the clearest beer possible.

Sanitizing the bottles

Next  thing was to get the other half of the sanitizer remaining from brew day and mix a batch to pour into each bottle.   The same preparation goes into the sterilization process; anything coming into contact with the beer must be thoroughly sanitized.  So caps and measuring spoons go into the sterilizer.  I also purchased a short length of clear aquarium tubing to extend to the end of the keg tap.  This will allow the beer to fill from the bottom of the bottle without splashing and introducing oxygen.  Oxygenation is the enemy of your beer at this point, so handle it carefully.  Be sure to sanitize the tubing with the other components.  Shake the bottles vigorously and let them stand for ten minutes.  Pour out the sanitizer; skip the rinsing.


Bottle conditioning is the key.

Adding priming sugar

Follow the instruction pamphlet's recommended amounts for sugar, used to prime each bottle.  There are different ratios for each bottle's ounce size.  A small sanitized funnel is handy for this purpose to help get the sugar into each bottle.  You can choose corn sugar (preferred) or plain white table sugar.  It will be the food for the yeast to consume as it bottle conditions for the next two weeks.  The CO2 dispelled will naturally carbonate your brew.  Okay, priming is done, so now it's time to fill the bottles.

Filler' up!

Connect the tube to the end of the tap spout and insert into the bottle.  Pull down on the tap handle and fill the bottle just up to the crown of the bottle neck.  You should leave about 2.5 inches of space in the neck to allow a space for the CO2 to build up as it conditions.  Cap the bottle tightly and rock the bottle back and forth to incorporate the priming sugar into the beer.  Repeat until all eight bottles are filled and capped.  You will notice if using the PET plastic bottles, they will get hard at this point as the magic begins to happen. You can now open the top of the keg and see how much beer is left over.  I had a little extra left over and was lucky enough to have a ceramic bail-top  12 ounce beer bottle with a rubber gasket handy.  I sanitized the bottle and its components, primed with the correct amount of sugar for the smaller bottle size and filled with the remaining beer.  Waste not, want not!  It will become my 'tester' bottle for two weeks from now, allowing me to sample a bit early.





Back into a cool and dark environment for another two weeks.  Again, sit back and be patient.  Ideally, let them bottle condition for two more weeks.

 
Firkin Making The Beer!

First Time Homebrewing - Fermenting (Part 1 of 4)

Firkin Around...The Kitchen.

So you wanna' home brew? Do you have what it takes?  It's easier than you think.  All you need to get started in the hobby is one of these kits shown at the right.  Fortunately for me, I received one from my daughter for a gift.  Home brewing was on the short list of my 2010 New Years resolutions, so now there was no excuse.


You won't need any expensive outlay of cash on coolers, pots, thermometers, bottles, grain, grain mills, caps, cap presses.....you got the picture?  Trust me, it's all in there.  Everything you need for 2 batches (8 liters each batch) is in the box.


All you need is a couple hours total over 6 weeks and you too can make beer in your own home.  Now for you experienced home brewers, stop your snickering.  I have it on very good information that many of you started out this way, before becoming mad scientists in your back yard or garage.  Admit it; at the very least, it will bring you closer to the thing you love the most - beer!  I will grant you that it is the equivalent of the "Easy Bake Oven ®" for making beer, but beer nonetheless.


It's just like delivering a baby; boil some water and tear up some clean sheets!  You can skip the clean sheets part, unless you are particularly messy.  Let's get started.


Take half a packet of sanitizer and dump it in the keg.  Place all the utensils that will come in contact with your brew inside the keg.  The spoon, spatula, the hand can opener, measuring spoons and cup; put all of it in the keg.  Fill half way with water, cap it up and shake and swirl it all around the inside of the keg.  Let it sit for ten minutes. Spill some onto a plate so you will have a sterile place to rest your utensils.

Adding the booster

Select one of the two cans* of HME (hopped malt extract) that comes with the kit and place the entire unopened can in hot water while your tools are sanitizing.  The hot water will allow the HME to flow easily when you need to add to the your boil.  Speaking of the boil, time to get a half gallon of water boiling then slowly add the alcohol booster packet until fully dissolved.  Remove from the heat and add your can of  HME.

* - Because Dad deserves the best, go for the Premium Mr. Beer kit. It contains everything needed to make two complete two gallon batches of beer. Yeah, baby! 

While the malt hops extract and alcohol booster cool, go back to your fermentation keg and pour out the sanitizing water.  Don't worry about rinsing the keg; it is non-toxic and designed to be a no rinse formula.  It won't affect the taste of your beer.

 Let the fermentation begin !

 

Topping off the keg

Pour the other 1.5 gallons of water into the keg.   Check the temp of your boil to see if it is below 95 F and then pour into the keg.  Perform these steps in order so as not to 'shock' the plastic of the keg.  The cooler standing water in the keg will help to absorb and lower the temperature.  You will want to pitch the yeast once the temp is below 85 F otherwise you may kill the yeast components.

Pitching the yeast

Let the little yeasties float on top for about 15 minutes and then swirl them vigorously with a spoon so they incorporate into the water.  This will ad some oxygen to the beer, (now becoming the wort).  It is the last time you will want to introduce any oxygen into the beer.  Now it is time to find a quiet dark cool place for your fermentation keg to sit for 10 to 14 days.


You might want to add a strip style aquarium thermometer to the side of the keg.  Be sure it is at the level of the liquid so you get a good reading.  In a day or so, it should read between 75 and 78 degrees.  This is an ideal temp to let the yeast start fermenting the sugars of the malt extract.





Shhh! Be vewy vewy quiet! We're making beer!  Sit back and be patient.  Ideally, let it ferment for two weeks.


 
Firkin Making The Beer!