Kegerator Build - How To

Converting a Sears Kenmore into a "Kegmore"

Firkin Around...the garage.

Here's my old beer fridge, which you may remember from a previous post. I have begun to homebrew, therefore the refrigerator needed to come up to the next level, since I also chose to keg the beer instead of bottling. This system is setup for a ball lock style corny (Cornelius) keg, but you may get parts for your own pinlock or Sankey style connections.

Below is a photo step-by-step on how the conversion was accomplished.

Project cost: Approximately $300 (assuming you already have the donor fridge)

Parts & Tools list:   

Kenmore is now a Kegmore

• 1" metal cutting hole-saw and a 1/8" metal bit 

• Round or half round, metal file

• Beer faucet, shank and faucet wrench

• 6' of approved gas tubing, 1 gas ball lock connector and two hose clamps

• 6' of approved food grade tubing, 1 liquid ball lock connector and two hose clamps

• 1 five pound CO2 canister and a CO2 regulator/gas gauge

• 1 Corny keg

• 1 stainless steel drip tray

Acquiring the parts:

     I purchased the keg from an online store. Just search for "corny" or Cornelius kegs. I shopped for the lowest price and found new kegs (made in India) for $113 w/free shipping. It uses all the same parts as American made corny kegs, so it will be easy to get spare parts like the dip tube, gas tube, springs, gaskets and poppets. Some are also made in China and Italy as the US does not seem to manufacture these style kegs any longer. I have seen them in 5, 3 and 2.5 gallon sizes (brand new), and there are plenty of US made 5 gallon used cornys still out
 there if you are on a budget.

     The drip tray was also available online and cost about $20.

     

     The CO2 tank, regulator w/gauges, hoses, clamps, shank, wrench, faucet and handle came as part of a complete package, from a different online web store. Shipping and handling were also free and the cost for the package was around $150.

Everything here was $150 and in one kit

     I did not have a 1" metal hole-saw, so add another $25 for a set of saws. If you, or someone you know, owns a 1" saw, you can save the $$$ for more beer! Lucky you.

     As mentioned before, I have the fridge and was willing to drill some holes. If you don't have a refrigerator, scour the local want-ads or Craigslist in your area. You should be able to pick up a decent working fridge for around $100 or less.

    Start by selecting a flat location with adequate access inside the fridge door. I had considered mounting the taps on one side of the fridge, but after placing my hand on the sides while the compressor was running, I discovered a few warm spots (to the touch) by running the palm of my hand along the outside skin of the unit. This indicates that some coils may be present as part of the defrosting or cooling system. Even if it is cool to the touch, there may be unseen wiring buried between the metal exterior and the plastic/insulation interior. Since the door has none of these issues with which to contend, it made the choice easy. I'd recommend the side closest to the hinge, if accessible, as this will keep the beer line hoses out of the way when the door is opened and closed.

     Safety glasses on, begin by drilling a 1/8" hole on the inside of the door, all the way through to the outside, remembering to keep the bit level. The outside hole will act as a pilot marker for the hole-saw. Switch over to the 1" hole-saw and repeat the process. Start by cutting a 1" hole into the plastic & insulation until the pilot bit "finds" the 1/8" pilot hole, then stop. Remove the debris from the hole-saw, then place the pilot in the outside door hole and finish cutting the hole. Drill slowly and carefully each time.

      Take a round file and smooth out any of the burrs on the metal of the door. The shank/faucet can now be inserted through the door and the shank nut, tightened.

     Note: There is enough room in the utility door to add two more taps, right and left of this one. I planned the placement for that possibility.

     I had to pull out the two lower crisper bins and shelf to allow enough head space for the corny keg with the ball lock connectors attached. As you can see, there is still plenty of room in the door and on the adjustable shelves for beer or food. I like to keep a few chilled (never frozen) glasses in the door. Just place a rubberized drip shelf to allow them to stay clean and ventilated. 

Down the road, a board will be added to keep the CO2 tank and keg level in the bottom of the fridge.

     Center, mark and drill the holes for the drip tray. Be sure to check the height of the tray to the tap so you have clearance. Use your judgement for best positioning.

     

     Top Tip: Later, I will add a drain to my drip tray, attach some tubing,  running the line back through the door and into an empty gallon jug. It will act as a runoff drain. I would place the jug in the lower part of the inside door. Great for party guests that have an occasional oops, without having to frequently sponge out the bottom of the tray.

Cool firkin project!

Beer Fridge Makeover

Firkin Around...The Garage

Sanding down the rusty, but trusty old Kenmore in the garage

Sitting around the house I got in a in a cleaning mood and decided it was time to take the sorry looking old rust bucket that was the Kenmore and give it a makeover. Looking over the owners manual that the former homeowners left behind, I discovered the fridge is nineteen years old this month! And we've been here for ten years now. Hmmm...wonder why they retired it to the garage so early? It's been running fine; keeping the beer cold and all.


The first order of business was to remove two handles and a strip of chromed plastic from one of the doors. A few sheets of sandpaper had the pitting gone and removed ten plus years of rust accumulation from sitting outside in the garage. Florida's weather is notorious for rusting out anything made of metal that has been left outdoors for any period of time. The salt air and humidity had done a number on the finish, especially around the door edges where condensation tends to collect. That task completed, I washed the door gaskets with soap and warm water to remove the grime. Masking tape was applied to cover them up for painting.

Primer applied and drying

Since the entire fridge including all the side panels and the top had been sanded, I wiped it all down with a damp rag and let it dry. Then I used a tack cloth on the outside in preparation for the primer base. It took about three cans of primer to get it looking like this. Needing a breather, I went for some water and fresh air on this hot day. It gave the primer a chance to completely dry, according to the instructions on the can. The fridge was looking better already. Now, off to the store for some color.


Only a funky color would do for the beer fridge. Not anything way over the top, although the Krylon® Rich Plum was pretty cool looking. There were so many colors to choose from, but somehow the green shades kept calling out to my subconscious. And which shade? Pistachio Green! Dropping five cans in the cart, the purchase was made.

Krylon says Pistachio but I say Nuclear Green

Meanwhile back at the ranch, the primer coat had already finished drying. The cans were shook up well and now it was time to get cracking on the color. Man, what a difference. I did manage to get a few runs here and there, but wasn't overly concerned about the whole ordeal. Backing up and looking over the color as a whole I exclaimed, "A little bit drippy, but a whole lot more trippy!" That pretty much sums it up, don't you think? The color really 'pops' out at you. Some choice beer stickers will likely be applied to the doors, but one of my internet buds recommended painting hops cones, instead. That is definitely under consideration. I can almost imagine it.

What a difference - It'll go another twenty years

The last part was to recondition the door handles and trim. For the trim, a simulated chrome based spray paint was used. A couple of coats with drying in between and it turned out fine. That part sits on the top sill of the bigger door. Lastly, the stubborn limescale was scrubbed from the pitted metal chromed parts of the door handles. A couple coats of car wax and they shined up nicely. The rubber/vinyl grips were washed with soap and water and then a vinyl protective gel was applied. Back in black and good as new! Masking tape off, insides washed out, the Kenmore never looked so good. Note: One less beer went back into the fridge than what came out. Do the math, (ha-ha!)


Annnnnd, if you were wondering, and I know that you were.....the answer is 'yes'!  It will become a kegerator at some point in the future. For now, it will keep craft beers chilled and me happy. Cheers!


Firkin Beer Fridge!

Beer Fridge

Firkin Around...the garage fridge.

Don't you wish this was yours?

I'm glad it's mine.  

Look...there's more in the door!

Hey!  How the heck did that 

can of Miller get in there?!?

............so, what's in your refrigerator?

Firkin stocked!